Fabric has always been at the heart of fashion, driving the social and economic narratives of societies throughout history. Despite its historical significance, modern fashion consumers often overlook the importance of textiles in their clothing choices. In contrast, past fashionistas highly valued their knowledge of fabrics, understanding the origins and qualities of various materials. For instance, an elegant woman in the eighteenth century would recognize the premium price of Chinese silk brocade, distinguish between wool types suitable for men’s and women’s attire, and appreciate the colorfastness of Indian cotton calicos. Even as recently as 1955, a study conducted by the United States Department of Agriculture revealed that the vast majority of women were knowledgeable about the fiber content of their clothing and considered it when making purchasing decisions..
The Fabric In Fashion exhibition delved into the cultural significance of textiles in Euro-American women’s fashion spanning the past two and a half centuries, aiming to shift the focus of fashion discourse towards the material aspects. Highlighting four primary fibers prevalent in Western women’s fashion – silk, cotton, wool, and synthetics – the exhibition showcased their versatility in creating diverse effects. From the creation of delicate and sheer cottons and wools to the crafting of robust and structured silks, these fibers were manipulated to achieve various textures and appearances. Additionally, synthetics were explored for their ability to exude a sleek and futuristic aesthetic or emulate the characteristics of natural fibers and artisanal fabrics.
